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Author: Emily Durand

Provence Villages Not to Miss

for an authentic experience and a breath of fresh air…

Provence VillagesThere are many Provence villages not to miss. I have a highlighted a few here that standout for their authentic side (less touristy) and offer beautiful views and peaceful gardens.

I have designed a tour taking you to these less touristy places along with some of the more popular “must sees”.  The tour also takes you to three different mountainous areas: The Luberon, Mont Ventoux and Les Alpilles. 

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Marseille Soap

How and why did Marseille get so famous for its soap?

First of all, let me ask you, what are two essential ingredients needed to make soap?

You need soda and salt.  Soda (sodium carbonate and sodium hydroxide) combined with a vegetable oil, creates the base of a Marseille soap.  During the heating process impurities can arise. Salt water is washed through the mixture several times for the cleansing.  The Camargue region (salt water marshes) next to Marseille, provides for both the soda and the salt.

To have sodium carbonate, the plant known as La Soude (Salsola soda) from the Camargue salt marshes are burned.  The ashes of this plant contain up to 30% of sodium carbonate.

Then of course, you have Marseille, a major port along the Mediterranean that had been key in trading ever since the Greeks arrived in 600 BC.   Put the well established trading port together with the natural environment providing the raw materials and you have the beginning of the Marseille soap story.

Timeline Marseille Soap

  • 1371 – First official soap maker located in Marseille
  • 15th century – the first industrial factories are established
  • 17th century – Marseille became the main production site of soap in France
  • 1688 – Louis the 14th laid down the rules which institutionalized Marseille soap.
  • 18th century – the Marseille soap became more than just a regional product.  Sea trade began and it was being shipped all over the Orient and Mediterranean basin.
  • 19th century – progress in hygiene, technology, railway infrastructure, and advertising continue to expand the demand of Marseille soap. This was the “golden age” and lasted until the beginning of the 20th century.
  • 1940’s – The steady decline started.  A lot was due to the production of synthetic detergents, people using washing machines (instead of washing by hand), the set-up of supermarkets where people coud easily buy other products.
  • The 70’s & 80’s – a return to natural and ecological values, Marseille soap becomes popular again.

Unfortunately, the rebound will never be back to what it was during its golden age.  In 1924 there were 108 soap manufacturers in Marseille and 14 in Salon. Today, there are four companies still making Marseille soap the traditional way: Le Fer à Cheval (1856) La Corvette (1894),  Marius Fabre (1900), and Le Sérail (1949).

How do you know if you are buying the authentic Savon de Marseille?

There are many products out there using the name « Marseille » to market their product.  However, it’s quite simple to know if what you are buying is an authentic Marseille soap, or not.  If it wasn’t made in Marseille (or Salon which is quite near Marseille) than it’s not authentic.  Below are the other elements to look for:

  1. Only vegetable oils are used and it must contain at least 72%
    • The very first « Marseille soap » was made only with olive oil.  Napoleon, in 1812, adopted a decree defining the shape of the soap (a pentagon) and the words « olive oil », the manufacturer’s name and the name « Marseille » stamped on the soap.  In 1927, Marseille soap was redefined as a product made exclusively from vegetable oils (palm oil or copra oil could be used instead of olive oil).
      Why did « other » vegetable oils get authorized?  Believe it or not, there was not enough local production of olive oil for the demand.
    • FYI – the « olive oil » used in the making of soap is the second press; the first press is oil used for cooking)
  2. No added animal fat, colorings, fragrance or preservatives (hence the term « Extra-Pure » can be used)
  3. There is 5 step process (traditionally using a cauldron) – these five steps take about 10 days.

When you go out to the local markets here in Provence, you will undoubtedly find many soaps to buy.  Most of them will be with coloring and perfumes (or sometimes essential oils).  You can ask the vendor where the soaps were made. Most, but not all, will be made in the Provence region.  It might even be made in Marseille.  These soaps can be referred to as « Soap from Marseille ».  But if you are looking for the « real » Marseille soap, « Savon de Marseille », you must remember that it will be either green (made from olive oil) or white (made from palm or copra oil).  Traditional Savon de Marseille will not be purple and smell like lavender.

South of France

Exploring the Mediterranean

South of France

The South of France incorporates a variety of scenic explorations.  Roman built cities, medieval hilltop villages, sumptuous valleys and even spectacular mountains are just the beginning of what you can explore.

One hour south, of what I call the central core of Provence (around L’Isle sur la Sorgue), is the Mediterranean. To truly explore all the facets of the South of France, I highly suggest at least one day along the Mediterranean.

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Wine Photography in France

wine photography

Wine photography is just one of the artistic elements to photograph while traveling in the South of France.  Ancient doors, rustic shutters, wildflowers and colorful facades keep the eye in the continual movement to capture the glory.   Could there be something better to capture than this?  What about a story?

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Lifestyles in Provence

lifestyle

As a tour guide, I get to see people in their “lifestyles” as I go from one village to another.  I consider this a perk to my job.  Capturing simple life moments reminds me to enjoy my own simple moments.  It is also one of the perks of travel; to see different lifetstyles.  It opens up our senses, our awareness and, quite often, gives us inspiration when we go home to live the little things.

Whether it be a facial expression, a gesture, a look or even a bodily stance, there is a story behind the scene ready to be embraced.  There is so much to see when travelling, other than the sites marked out in the guide books (or your private guide).

Take a little journey in Provence through a few of my own shots.  This is my 2016/17 collection of “lifestyles” in Provence.

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